Retinoids Are Complicated. This Guide Isn’t.

If you've spent any time exploring skincare, you've probably heard retinoids described as the “gold standard” of skincare ingredients. Backed by decades of research, this family of vitamin A derivatives is known for helping with everything from acne to minimizing the appearance of fine lines. Few skincare ingredients have been studied as extensively or deliver such consistent results.

But despite all the praise, retinoids can also be confusing. What's the difference between retinol and retinal? Are prescription retinoids really that much stronger? Why do some people experience dryness and peeling when they use a retinoid? With so much information (and misinformation) online, it's easy to feel overwhelmed before you even get started.

The good news is that retinoids don't have to be complicated. This guide breaks down the science in a way that's easy to understand, explaining how different types of retinoids work, what sets them apart, how to choose the right one for your skin, and more, so you can get the most out of one of skincare's most effective ingredients.

What Are Retinoids?

‘Retinoid’ is the umbrella term for a family of topical vitamin A derivatives used in skincare, from over-the-counter products to prescription treatments. There are several types of retinoids—we break them down below—and they differ in potency, how quickly they work, and how they’re converted by the skin.

For a retinoid to deliver its benefits, it needs to be converted to retinoic acid, the active form that binds to the retinoid receptors in the skin. The fewer conversion steps a retinoid must undergo to become retinoic acid, the faster it can deliver benefits for your skin. 

What Do Retinoids Do?

As you age, cell turnover—a.k.a. when your old skin cells are replaced by new skin cells—slows down, which leaves skin looking dull and rough. Because those old cells are on top for a longer period of time, dark spots and acne marks linger on the skin’s surface, and fine lines look deeper than they actually are. Your skin loses its bounce, struggles to heal, and gets super dry because moisture can't move through those stubborn top layers as easily anymore. 

Collagen production also starts to drop as you get older. If you think of your skin as a mattress, collagen proteins are the inner springs that give your skin its structure, firmness, and elasticity. When collagen production drops, it can lead to more visible fine lines and wrinkles, increased dryness and dullness, and less resilient skin.

Retinoids work to combat both of these changes: they help speed up cell turnover, improving skin’s texture and tone, and they support collagen production, which helps plump the skin and reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

The increase in cell turnover also helps to prevent the buildup of dead skin cells that can clog pores and cause acne. Plus, retinoids don’t just help with breakouts, but also with what breakouts can leave behind, like dark spots, because old, pigmented cells are shed more quickly.

These results don’t happen overnight, though. Consistency is key. Depending on the retinoid, it can take anywhere from 4 to 12 weeks to see noticeable improvements.

Who Should Use Retinoids?

As you can probably tell from everything they can do, so many people can benefit from adding a retinoid into their routine. But there’s no “perfect age” to start. It really just comes down to what you want out of your skincare. Some people recommend starting them in your twenties as a preventative move because they’re great at tackling the look of fine lines, smoothing out rough texture, evening out your skin tone, and managing acne. Others start using retinoids when fine lines, texture, or discoloration start showing up. The best time is really determined by your unique skin goals and needs.

The only people who really shouldn’t use a retinoid are those who are pregnant or those on medication that may clash with topical vitamin A. If this is the case, always check with your doctor before starting one.

Types of Retinoids Explained

There are several different types of retinoids, and they are not all created equal. For retinoids to work on your skin, they have to be converted to retinoic acid. Prescription-strength retinoids, like tretinoin and adapalene, are already in the active form, so they get to work instantly. Other retinoids need to go through the conversion process in order to work on the skin, and the more conversion steps there are for a retinoid, the longer it’ll take to see visible results (but the less likely you are to see signs of irritation like dryness or peeling).

Retinyl Esters

It takes retinyl esters three steps to convert into retinoic acid on the skin—to retinol, retinal, then retinoic acid—making them the gentlest but the weakest type of retinoid. They’re commonly found in over-the-counter (OTC) skincare, and because they’re so gentle, they’re often well-suited for beginners. Even though retinyl esters aren’t as potent as other retinoids, they can produce gradual results with consistent use.

Retinol

Retinol is the retinoid you’ve probably heard about most; it’s one of the most popular and widely available OTC retinoids because it’s more potent than retinyl esters while generally being easier to formulate than retinal, which requires more advanced stabilization technologies. However, retinol requires two conversion steps before becoming retinoic acid, making it an effective but another slower-acting option. 

Retinal (Retinaldehyde)

Retinal (also called retinaldehyde) is the most potent retinoid that doesn’t require a doctor’s prescription. Because it requires just one conversion step to become retinoic acid, it can deliver results more quickly and efficiently than retinol. Retinal is actually the most fragile option out of all the OTC retinoids. It easily breaks down when it is exposed to light, oxygen, or heat. Thankfully, advances in skincare stabilization and delivery technology have helped overcome this long-standing formulation challenge. 

Take our Firm Revival HydroRetinal Firming Serum as an example. It’s formulated with a 0.05% next-gen retinal. Encapsulation is a technology used to house the retinal in a protective shell to help improve stability and efficacy; our next-gen retinal takes this a step further. Instead of relying on just one protective layer, our retinal uses a multi-phase delivery system with several layers and components to maximize efficacy and stability while also helping to minimize sensitivity.

Prescription Retinoids

Prescription retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene are all forms of pure retinoic acid, which means they don’t need to undergo any conversion steps; they get to work instantly on the skin. However, stronger doesn’t always mean better. Prescription retinoids can come with a higher risk of irritation, including dryness, redness, and flaking, which can make consistency challenging. Finding a retinoid that you can use consistently often matters more than using the highest-strength option.

How to Use Retinoids in Your Skincare Routine

When you start using a retinoid, apply to clean, dry skin at night. (Using a retinoid during the daytime can reduce its effectiveness.) Use it one to two times a week for the first few weeks, then work your way up to three to four times a week, until you get to nightly use. 

Sometimes, retinoids speed things up faster than your skin can adjust, which can cause temporary flaking, dryness, and sensitivity. To help fight against this, apply a rich moisturizer like Instant Angel Lipid-Rich Firming Moisturizer or Skin Mercy Recovery Cream after your retinoid. 

Instant Angel is formulated with ceramides and lipids that work to support the skin barrier, reduce transepidermal water loss, and calm sensitivity and irritation. In a clinical study with daily application of Instant Angel, 100% of people had improvement in skin barrier function and visible plumpness in 24 hours.*

And Skin Mercy is a treatment moisturizer formulated with 1% colloidal oatmeal, an FDA-approved skin protectant that helps calm visible redness, dryness, itch, and irritation. In a clinical study of 34 panelists with self-perceived sensitive skin, 100% of people had a significant improvement in barrier function and hydration on application.**

While retinoids can cause sensitivity, Firm Revival is formulated with sensitive skin in mind to actively combat the common side effects. Our proprietary multi-phase delivery system gradually releases retinal to minimize sensitivity and help reach deeper layers of skin. It also has a blend of powerful soothing ingredients like gromwell root extract, allantoin, panthenol, glycerin and snow mushroom extract to deeply hydrate. It's one of the few retinoids awarded the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance and was ophthalmologist-tested to be safe for use around the delicate eye area.

Overall, you should keep your nighttime routine simple as your skin adjusts to the retinoid, and don’t layer on too many active ingredients at once. This helps prevent serious irritation and protects the integrity of your skin barrier.

When it comes to your daytime routine, wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day is a must, especially when you’re using a retinoid. Because they speed up cell turnover, retinoids can leave your skin more prone to UV damage, especially when you first start using them. (If you’ve got general questions about sunscreen, you can find answers here.)

What Should You Avoid Layering With Retinoids?

There are certain ingredients that don’t mix well with retinoids, and layering them together can cause irritation, weaken the skin’s protective barrier, and reduce effectiveness. 

Pairing alpha hydroxy acids (like glycolic and lactic acid), beta-hydroxy acids (like salicylic acid), and keratolytic exfoliants (like azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide) with retinoids can cause dryness, irritation, and redness. To avoid this, use the exfoliant in the mornings when you aren’t applying a retinoid or on alternating nights if you aren’t using a retinoid daily. 

When vitamin C and retinoids are combined, they react in a way that causes both ingredients to become less effective. If using both, opt for vitamin C in the morning and the retinoid at night to make sure both ingredients remain potent. Prefer to skip the juggling? Deliverance 3-in-1 Repair Serum is formulated with a 4.4% Antioxidant Blend and niacinamide to deliver brightening and tone-evening benefits of vitamin C without worrying about layering conflicts at night.

Retinoid FAQs

What are retinoids used for?

Because they help increase cell turnover and boost collagen production, retinoids are used to address the look of fine lines and wrinkles, acne and clogged pores, and uneven skin tone and texture. 

How do retinoids work?

For retinoids to start working on the skin, they need to be converted to retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A that binds to the retinoid receptors in the skin. (Prescription treatments, like tretinoin, are already retinoic acid, so they don’t need to undergo a conversion process.) Once converted, retinoids influence the behavior of skin cells, boosting cell turnover and collagen production.

FYI: Firm Revival HydroRetinal Firming Serum is formulated with a 0.05% next-gen retinal and 16% Hydro-Calming Blend of soothing ingredients, making it gentle for new retinoid users while still being effective.

How do I start using retinoids as a beginner?

Start with a low concentration and use them one to two times a week for the first few weeks, working your way up until you get to nightly use. Also, make sure you’re using a barrier-replenishing moisturizer like Instant Angel or Skin Mercy to support the skin barrier.

Should I choose a retinoid cream or a retinoid serum?

It depends on what your skincare goals and needs are. A retinoid serum has a lightweight, fast-absorbing texture, while a retinoid cream has a thicker texture. The effectiveness of a retinoid depends more on the specific retinoid, concentration, and formulation than whether it’s a serum or cream. The best option is the one that fits seamlessly into your routine and that you can use consistently.

Do retinoids expire?

Yes, retinoids expire. Look at the packaging of the retinoid for the period after opening (PAO) symbol. It looks like an open jar with a number followed by the letter ‘M.’ It's there to tell you how long you can expect your product to stay in good condition after you’ve first opened it.

What is retinal?

Retinal (a.k.a. retinaldehyde) is the most potent retinoid that doesn’t need a prescription. It requires just one conversion step to become retinoic acid, so it can deliver results more quickly and efficiently than retinol. 

It's the retinoid we use in Firm Revival HydroRetinal Firming Serum, formulated at 0.05% with a multi-phase delivery system that features multiple layers to improve stability and active delivery so it is gradually released to minimize sensitivity and help reach deeper layers of the skin. 

Retinal vs retinol: what's the difference?

The main difference between retinol and retinal is how many steps they take to convert into retinoic acid. Retinol requires two conversion steps, while retinal requires only one, making it a faster-acting and more potent option.

What are retinol side effects on the skin?

Some common side effects of retinol include dryness, redness, peeling, flaking, purging, and increased sensitivity. You can manage these side effects by using a gentle yet effective retinoid formula like Firm Revival, starting low and slow, and using a skin barrier-supporting moisturizer like Instant Angel or Skin Mercy. 

Retinoids, Explained—Now What?

Retinoids don't have to be intimidating. Once you understand the different types of retinoids, it becomes much easier to choose the option that matches your skin's needs and goals. 

The truth is, though, the best retinoid is the one you'll use consistently. Regular use delivers far better results than using a stronger product that causes irritation and is difficult to stick with. Patience and consistency are what make the biggest difference over time.

That's why we created Firm Revival HydroRetinal Firming Serum, powered by a highly stable, next-gen retinal and barrier-supporting actives to visibly firm skin while hydrating and minimizing flaking and sensitivity. Because the best retinoid isn’t just the strongest one—it’s the one you can keep reaching for.

With the right formulation and a little patience, you can build a routine that’s effective, consistent, and lets you enjoy the benefits of skincare’s “gold standard” ingredient.

As always, you’re Dieux-ing great.

*Based on a 4-week independent clinical study of 40 panelists, measured via instrumentation and expert grading.

**Based on a 4-week independent clinical study of 34 panelists with self-perceived sensitive skin and 11 panelists with diagnosed facial eczema, measured via instrumentation and expert grading

***Based on an independent clinical study with 40 panelists, measured via instrumentation and expert grading.